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Fun day working on the truck.


Silentpoet
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Just a little bit of mostly routine maintenance. Clean the battery terminals, change oil, transmission fluid and filter, nothing extraordinary. Got the terminals clean. No problem. Oil drained and plug back in, no problem.

Oil filter removed, problem! In over 30 years of changing oil I have never had a more stubborn filter.  4 different filter wrenches just deformed it in varying ways. 2 different screw drivers just maybe tore the outside. It may have budged a little but not so you could say for sure. 
So it is time for drastic measures. Milwaukee angle grinder first. The next step is the little oscillating saw, but I have to get this eye appointment in.

04745891-7CDD-405C-AB5C-765F0DE0DE4E.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Walt Longmire said:

I use large pliers on the stubborn ones. 

They just bent it. I’m still not done.. I have mostly just the base of the filter left. Got it cut in a couple of places but barely even budges. Well back under the truck for me.

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3 hours ago, Walt Longmire said:

I use large pliers on the stubborn ones. 

I've got 3' channel-locks.

They don't get used very often, but sometimes you just need to crush and torque the hell out of something.

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Just a reminder, the ejector rod on Smith and Wesson revolvers is a reverse thread.

And some Chrysler products in the 1960s and 1970s had reverse thread lug nuts.

Left to tighten, right to loosen.

Oh, and if you are one of those galoots that, over the years, put Loctite on the ejector rod so that it took me far more time and effort to remove it - don't.  :shakefist:

 

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11 hours ago, tous said:

Oh, and if you are one of those galoots that, over the years, put Loctite on the ejector rod so that it took me far more time and effort to remove it - don't.  :shakefist:

 

I developed a habit of tightening the ejector rod as an integral step in the process of closing the cylinder. I don't even think about it anymore. 

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If snugged, the ejector rod rarely rotates such that it will be loose.

It is a left-hand thread because Smith and Wesson, Ruger, Taurus, heck, everybody except Colt has a cylinder that rotates counter-clockwise, so if the ejector rod had a normal right-hand thread, the rotation of the cylinder could loosen it.  Thus, the reverse thread.

But, you already knew that.  :biggrin:

I used a chuck from a old  3/8 inch drill and padded the jaws with leather as a remove/install tool.

If you suspect someone has used Loctite, heat from a propane torch  gently applied will usually break it loose.

I have, over the years, had to replace the entire extractor  because someone over-tightened the ejector rod.

The threads are rather fragile.  Gorilla force is not needed or desired.

:599c64bfb50b0_wavey1:

 

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5 hours ago, tous said:

If snugged, the ejector rod rarely rotates such that it will be loose.

It is a left-hand thread because Smith and Wesson, Ruger, Taurus, heck, everybody except Colt has a cylinder that rotates counter-clockwise, so if the ejector rod had a normal right-hand thread, the rotation of the cylinder could loosen it.  Thus, the reverse thread.

But, you already knew that.  :biggrin:

I used a chuck from a old  3/8 inch drill and padded the jaws with leather as a remove/install tool.

If you suspect someone has used Loctite, heat from a propane torch  gently applied will usually break it loose.

I have, over the years, had to replace the entire extractor  because someone over-tightened the ejector rod.

The threads are rather fragile.  Gorilla force is not needed or desired.

:599c64bfb50b0_wavey1:

 

Word. I don't Loctite the ejector rods at all. I prefer they be hand tight. In fact I don't Loctite anything I can think of. Fingernail polish seems to work best for me. 

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I helped a dear friend do her first oil change on a new engine installed in her old Chevie flatbed.  The oil filter didn't give up with dedicated filter wrenches or strap wrench or giant slip joint pliers.  Screw drivers didn't do it either.  All that was left was the base.

Eventually I thought I might could thread long bolts through the holes in the base.  I think I used my steering wheel puller or harmonic balancer puller...I forget which.  

What made it so I could reef between the bolts with a breaker bar was barely chewed gum with lotsa flavor and sugar to hold the threads from falling out.

It worked...I are persistent.:IBTL:

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10 minutes ago, gwalchmai said:

I hope you disposed of that in an environmentally responsible manner...

USE ONE STICK OF DYNAMITE 

10 minutes ago, gwalchmai said:

I hope you disposed of that in an environmentally responsible manner...

 

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