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Fun day working on the truck.


Silentpoet
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I had a bad one a couple years ago with the KW. 10 gallon oil change. Warm engine so good time to do the change. I gather up the buckets and put them under the truck. Flip the quick drain valve and away we go. As the bucket are filling I remove the giant oil filter. Next to it is a filter for the cooling system. It's easy to get at with the oil filter off. It has a valve that can be closed so no coolant is lost but the valve turns very hard and I'm afraid I'll break it so I just swap the filter out fast. (usually) Coolant filter is off. Hot coolant running out. Damn, new filter won't go on. Try several times. Finally notice the plug is still in the threads on the new filter. Hands are now too slick to get it out. Grab pliers and get the plug out. Screw new filter on. Meanwhile the buckets under the truck have over flowed with coolant and oil. Big mess. O.K. I clean it up. Did I mention it was a BIG mess. Now fill the new oil filter and put it on. Start filling the engine with oil. Crap. I didn't close the drain valve. 2 gallons of new oil on the floor. Close the valve. Fill the engine with 10 gallons of oil. Add a couple gallons of coolant to replace what was lost. Clean up the second mess. Take my clothes and coveralls off and throw them in the dumpster. 

Next oil change went off without a hitch. Thankfully.

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On 5/16/2022 at 6:13 PM, Silentpoet said:

They just bent it. I’m still not done.. I have mostly just the base of the filter left. Got it cut in a couple of places but barely even budges. Well back under the truck for me.

I had one like that once.  Eventually tore the can apart and left the base attached.  I finally had to use an air chisel to drive the base off the threaded mount.

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When you replace the filter, if don't already do this, put a light coating of grease on the rubber seal on the top off the filter and that should keep it from being hard to take off. Always hand tighten it.

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I paid for a ten year old mistake on an old lawn mower today. Removing the screws that hold on the filter housing' the threads in the aluminum carburetor came out with the screws. I think I had used the wrong grade lock-tite years ago. Looked up a 10-32 helicoil repair kit and it was $70. There is room to glue a nut on the back side of the flange so that's the fix. 

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10 hours ago, Inyo Tim said:

I paid for a ten year old mistake on an old lawn mower today. Removing the screws that hold on the filter housing' the threads in the aluminum carburetor came out with the screws. I think I had used the wrong grade lock-tite years ago. Looked up a 10-32 helicoil repair kit and it was $70. There is room to glue a nut on the back side of the flange so that's the fix. 

JB WELD

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1 hour ago, gwalchmai said:

I think he meant to use JB Weld to glue the nut on the back side of the flange.

Yes, I probably misunderstood. I'm going to the auto parts store here when it opens this morning and try to get a couple 10-32 studs and loctite them into the flange. I checked and it is possible to come straight in with the filter housing. A couple lock nuts on the studs and I'm in business.

This is a 30+ year old lawn mower that has sat for a while and I'm trying to get it going again just for something to do. I found that few parts are available for a B&S engine that old. I'm having to get creative.

 

494861956_mowercarb.jpg

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On 5/17/2022 at 8:21 PM, Silentpoet said:

Finally. The oil change from hell is done.

BACC5F01-96E5-4C0D-9836-11FD87042021.jpeg

Had something like that on a Chevy pickup once. The gasket took a raw dog pill and was swollen. It was a lesson in futility and patience. That thing was YUGE when I got the thing off. Never had it happen before or after and hope I don't. i don't change oil now, but still.

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