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do not strip out out ??  nothing makes me madder then cheap ass chinese  wood screws and phillip heads.  think im gonna start using the screws with the square indent that comes with the socket for it .    

we are building a big ass kitchen island  and i quit for the night .  you just touch it with the drill they strip out .  lowes had some suppose to be pretty good , nope 

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Square drive screws strip too(but much less), but I like them a lot better than phillips...

Usually a phillips head screw will strip because it's being driven with the wrong size driver for that particular screw. 

Edited by OwlsNest465
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12 minutes ago, ASH said:

do not strip out out ??  nothing makes me madder then cheap ass chinese  wood screws and phillip heads.  think im gonna start using the screws with the square indent that comes with the socket for it .    

we are building a big ass kitchen island  and i quit for the night .  you just touch it with the drill they strip out .  lowes had some suppose to be pretty good , nope 

Make sure you are using new Phillips driver tips. If the tip is allowed to slip on a screw even a few revolutions, it will round over the edges and it becomes useless. New driver tips are cheap. I also like to use a cordless screwdriver with an impact function. It is very effective at keeping screws and tips from stripping. 

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I have used a screw head that was a combination of Phillips and a large square socket.  I could put the screws on the bit and carry them to the work without them falling off. 

On the other hand, I have had these same screws driven into the work and then they require me to pull the bit off them because it wouldn't come out after driving the screw.

I use these on 3 1/2 in timber screws.  They do require a special bit.  TCDK-2T.jpg

As said previously, all head configuration work as intended with sharp new bits.  You can dull a bit quickly and easily,  from then on it will slip out. 

People keep using dull drive bits just like they keep using dull saw blades.  Don't do it!

Edited by janice6
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yeah i dont dick around  with saw blades   .  my dad taught me that at early early age cutting fire wood .  blade on weed wackers too .   

you know im getting old  nd forgetful   , i got whole set of torx bits  ,  torx heads are all over my 79 jeeps .  i need a mri  . 

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9 minutes ago, janice6 said:

I have used a screw head that was a combination of Phillips and a large square socket.  I could put the screws on the bit and carry them to the work without them falling off. 

On the other hand, I have had these same screws driven into the work and then they require me to pull the bit off them because it wouldn't come out after driving the screw.

I use these on 3 1/2 in timber screws.  They do require a special bit.  

As said previously, all head configuration work as intended with sharp new bits.  You can dull a bit quickly and easily,  from then on it will slip out. 

People keep using dull drive bits just like they keep using dull saw blades.  Don't do it!

Bits. That is the word I was looking for earlier.:biggrin:

I buy name brand Phillips bits and I get them in the plastic case that looks like a big Tic-Tac container. If a bit slips more than once, I usually toss it and load a fresh one. The trick is to keep them from slipping. Then they last forever.

As I mentioned, a cordless screwdriver with an impact function helps a lot. When more torque becomes necessary, it hammers in on the bit, which helps keep it seated. It works so well in fact that I usually break a bit before it ever slips on a screw and they last a long time before they break.

On the few occasions I’ve let someone use my cordless drill/driver, I usually spend a lot of time cringing as they try to drill the damned screw bit through the screw head. That irritates the hell out of me. 

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5 minutes ago, Eric said:

Bits. That is the word I was looking for earlier.:biggrin:

I buy name brand Phillips bits and I get them in the plastic case that looks like a big Tic-Tac container. If a bit slips more than once, I usually toss it and load a fresh one. The trick is to keep them from slipping. Then they last forever. As I mentioned, a cordless screwdriver with an impact function helps a lot. When more torque becomes necessary, it hammers in on the bit, which helps keep it seated. It works so well in fact that I usually break a bit before it ever slips on a screw and they last a long time before they break.

on the few occasions I’ve let someone use my cordless drill/driver, I usually spend a lot of time cringing as they try to drill the damned screw bit through the screw head. That irritates the hell out of me. 

This is the preferred failure of the bit.  They require pressure and a feel to get them going before you "DRIVE" them.  If the bit dulls then you are not driving it properly.  They are highly tempered to be brittle and reduce rounding over of the edges.  They should break before rounding out.  Their no different than a knife in that to work best, they must be sharp.

Yeah it pees me off to when the driver drills out the head.  In retaliation, I have accumulated every type of screw remover bit I could find.  At least one will work out of many.

I friend looked at my "case of drive bits", and commented that I have more money in bits than he has in his driver.

Edited by janice6
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Just now, Silentpoet said:

We sure are a bunch of old men.  It is Saturday night and we are talking about screws that don't really involve women or taxes.

This reflects the sad state of  affairs in society today.  Not one reference to a beautiful body.

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43 minutes ago, janice6 said:

I have used a screw head that was a combination of Phillips and a large square socket.  I could put the screws on the bit and carry them to the work without them falling off. 

On the other hand, I have had these same screws driven into the work and then they require me to pull the bit off them because it wouldn't come out after driving the screw.

I use these on 3 1/2 in timber screws.  They do require a special bit.  TCDK-2T.jpg

As said previously, all head configuration work as intended with sharp new bits.  You can dull a bit quickly and easily,  from then on it will slip out. 

People keep using dull drive bits just like they keep using dull saw blades.  Don't do it!

Phillips square drive are nice that they will work with the special bit, they work about as well as a normal phillips with a phillips bit, and work pretty good with the square bit as well.  

My favorite is still using torx headed screws, which, as long as you are using the correct size bit, will almost never strip.

Don't even get me started on all the kits that come with pozi drivers and people trying to use them in place of phillips drivers *cringe*

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I rather like pozidrive screws, but they seem to be about as common as hen's teeth in imperial sizes.  A lot of my old HP gear uses them (mainly 6-32 flatheads), and it would be nice to be able to get them easily.  Scored some on the bay of iniquity a while back, but haven't seen much since.  (Unless of course I want to order a box of like ten thousand of them.  Don't need quite THAT many...)

-Pat

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www.homedepot.com/p/GRK-Fasteners-9-x-2-1-2-in-Star-Drive-Bugle-Head-R4-Multi-Purpose-Screw-100-per-Pack-103101/203525228

self starting - no pilot hole needed - ever

self countersinking

star drive

indoor/outdoor

"For use in wood, particle-board, cement fiberboard, plastic, sheet metal"

___________________

I stayed in last night. My wife was out of town with the grandsons. But I've stayed in on Saturday night for years and years, even before I retired in 2012. You know why? Because Saturday night is freaking party night for AMATEURS. What a mess they are.

Edited by johnbt
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4 hours ago, johnbt said:

www.homedepot.com/p/GRK-Fasteners-9-x-2-1-2-in-Star-Drive-Bugle-Head-R4-Multi-Purpose-Screw-100-per-Pack-103101/203525228

self starting - no pilot hole needed - ever

self countersinking

star drive

indoor/outdoor

"For use in wood, particle-board, cement fiberboard, plastic, sheet metal"

___________________

I stayed in last night. My wife was out of town with the grandsons. But I've stayed in on Saturday night for years and years, even before I retired in 2012. You know why? Because Saturday night is freaking party night for AMATEURS. What a mess they are.

Not ten minutes after I followed the Home Depot link in your post, I was on Facebook and saw the ad below. Big Brother is apparently into advertising now. :biggrin:

DD9B487F-5197-45BA-98B0-C9BB66A14CB6.jpeg.5be400e3ce2578bf741e640639b8cc91.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Eric said:

Not ten minutes after I followed the Home Depot link in your post, I was on Facebook and saw the ad below. Big Brother is apparently into advertising now. :biggrin:

DD9B487F-5197-45BA-98B0-C9BB66A14CB6.jpeg.5be400e3ce2578bf741e640639b8cc91.jpeg

Information is being managed and controlled.  As you know it's big money.  I don't care for it either.

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GRK from HD are some of the best around that are available in small quantities. Made in USA or Germany, or at least they used to be. 

There are others, some of the Grip Rite screws are really good. If using outdoors look for the PPG coatings.

My crews run through 40k screws in a work week on some jobs. We won't touch anything Philips, all star drive and some square drive in the auto-loading guns.

If you're not breaking bits you're not working those drivers hard enough.

I've got buckets of broken bits, thought about forging them into a nice thick knife.

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these help,they are hard enough and sharp enough to bite into the screw and not round it and they last forever.

they are also designed to absorb torque so they don`t bounce off the head and round it.

i use them and they work well.

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/2320786?x429=true&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsY3cy_Tq4wIVyICfCh0izQObEAQYASABEgK_YfD_BwE

 

and sometimes the shipping is more then its worth but they have everything to fasten everything.

https://www.fastenal.com/product/fasteners/screws/wood-screws?categoryId=600071&level=3&query=screw&isExpanded=true

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