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RANT! Buying a car


NPTim
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I ******* hate this. I hate the stealership numbers ****-**** fuckery! Why the **** can’t it be simple. Tell me the price out the door and I’ll decide if I want to pay it. No mandatory accessories. No creative math with the ******* trade in.

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do a little online research, decide what price you are willing to pay before you walk in the door.

Tell them what you want and what price you are willing to pay.  Tell them they have 5 minutes to make the decision before you walk out the door.  If they take longer than 5 minutes, walk out the door.  If they run out after you and try to agree, tell them because they wasted your time the price you are willing to pay just dropped by $500 or $1000.  Give them 5 more minutes to figure it out, then leave.

They only have as much power over you as you let them have.

 

My last 3 vehicle purchases I walked in, told them what car I wanted and what I wanted the price to be out the door.  All 3 I got the price I told them, because I knew what they were worth and made a reasonable offer going in.  It helped that I had only the amount I was willing to spend pre-authorized by my credit union, so even if they tried to get me to pay more it was impossible.

Oh, and don't bother trying to do a trade in to a stealership, I have yet to hear of a single trade in offer that was anywhere near what the vehicle was worth in the real world, and in multiple cases the dealerships had the trade in on the lot 2 days later at well over twice what the trade in they gave was.

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Another option would be to use a  car buying service. Google "your car advocate". They do all the legwork for you. My ex-wife has used them for her last three car purchases and got great deals and she got exactly what she wanted. No hassle or frustration. They have buying power. They delivered the car to the house, did the paperwork at her kitchen table and took the trade. She never stepped foot in the dealership.

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My last truck I found online.  Watched and it dropped a couple of grand.  Went in drove it and knew what I was willing to pay.  Certified used..  I'm sure they made money but I was satisfied with everything I got.  Yes.... I'm sure the sales person and dealership were celebrating and throwing $100.00 bills in the air as I left the lot. 

Dave..

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I just can't believe the price of new vehicles these days...

Was just browsing various sites and the cost of new and used is just ridiculous.  

My house was $115k and my monthly mortgage is only $575.

If I buy a new Toyota 4Runner for $37k and get $5k in trade and finance it at 3% for five years, my payment is...  $575.  Same as my damn mortgage.

And used 4Runners are just as bad.  Buy a ten year old 4Runner with under 100k miles and it's $20k.  

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I don't play by their rules and games anymore.

 

1.) Decide on the car / truck you want.

2.) Arrange cash or financing through your credit union, unless manufacturer offers lower or zero percent (only if you have a credit score of 740 plus, otherwise they will stuff you with a shitty loan and make provision on it).

3.) Search best deal nationwide on autotrader.com and cars. com (sort result list by price).

4.) Send 20+ emails directly to those dealers with the lowest pricing (email address to be found on their website, do not email them through autotrader.com or cars.com or you will be spammed with crap), ask directly for a cash OTD buyers order based on their online AD. Let them know that you are in the business (lie) to prevent them from playing stupid games and that you can be in and out within one hour.

5.) Some will still pull the stunt with incentives included in the AD that won't all apply. Ask for their invoice, and simultaneously ask them if they won't to get the car / truck off the lot and meet their planned contingent.

6.) Pick the best offer (factor in distance (time factor), one-way plane ticket, gas, hotel). Ask dealer if they will help with plane ticket, and then to pick you up at the airport.

 

I found my current truck 3 states up North in North Carolina. Got a bit over 30% off the sticker. Only 13 miles on it, no demo / dealer vehicle.

When I picked it up, I did the obligatory test ride around the block, looked at the production time stamp on the tires (1 year old), bitched about some vibration in the steering wheel and claimed that the tires must have flat spots from standing on the lot, and got another $1,000 off for new tires.

Back home I made a warranty claim with GoodYear, they replaced 2 tires and road-force balanced them all. Vibration is gone, didn't have to pay one dime.

I left at 6 AM, arrived at the dealer at 9 AM, was out at 11 AM (tire bitching took some time, needed to cook the sales mangers  a bit with "I came all the way out and now the truck has an issue, yada yada yada!), and drove back home in one shot. Was in my bed by midnight. Ticket and gas was about $500, only a tiny fraction of what I saved.

PS: Don't **** a ******. Live by it or you will be fucked over, especially at a car dealer.

 

 

Edited by crockett
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Wait. All this crying from the OP (pretty sketchy dude anyhow- drug pusher), and he didn't even tell us what kinda vehicle he's talking about? :poke:

 

@NPTim yo gotta give us SOMETHING. Sports car, bigass truck, what are we looking at here?

 

Both my cars (15 Taco and 16 Genesis) are paid for. I dread the thought of buying a new ride, and will probably run these two into the ground. The Taco has almost 120k, so it's good and broke in. Should be able to double that. The coupe has maybe 20k on it- still looks and drives like brand new. Gonna be really hard to convince me to get a new ride anytime in the next few years, just because I hate the feeling of getting hosed at the dealer.

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8 hours ago, tadbart said:

Wait. All this crying from the OP (pretty sketchy dude anyhow- drug pusher), and he didn't even tell us what kinda vehicle he's talking about? :poke:

 

@NPTim yo gotta give us SOMETHING. Sports car, bigass truck, what are we looking at here?

 

Both my cars (15 Taco and 16 Genesis) are paid for. I dread the thought of buying a new ride, and will probably run these two into the ground. The Taco has almost 120k, so it's good and broke in. Should be able to double that. The coupe has maybe 20k on it- still looks and drives like brand new. Gonna be really hard to convince me to get a new ride anytime in the next few years, just because I hate the feeling of getting hosed at the dealer.

Padwan learning drug pusher, head my words well. I was looking for a 2013 platinum Tundra as it would receive my bumper and 46 gal. Gas tank. Now I’m looking at BMW X5 maybe in diesel, or Cadillac.

when the the salesman ran my car through KBB app it showed $8000+ And said, “that’s the minimum you’ll get.” Well that was a big fat LIE. They offered $6500 PLUS $500 tax savings so I was REALLY getting $7000. ****, that **** makes no sense. The advertised price was 29,556, oh plus 1498 for window tinting and LoJack that was a  mandatory purchase. So actually the price was $31,000, NOT 29,556 which was advertised. I brought this up and mentioned bait and switch, and jabba the hut sales manager shows the mice type at the very bottom of the internet page that states the policy. I walked at that point.

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1 hour ago, NPTim said:

Padwan learning drug pusher, head my words well. I was looking for a 2013 platinum Tundra as it would receive my bumper and 46 gal. Gas tank. Now I’m looking at BMW X5 maybe in diesel, or Cadillac.

when the the salesman ran my car through KBB app it showed $8000+ And said, “that’s the minimum you’ll get.” Well that was a big fat LIE. They offered $6500 PLUS $500 tax savings so I was REALLY getting $7000. ****, that **** makes no sense. The advertised price was 29,556, oh plus 1498 for window tinting and LoJack that was a  mandatory purchase. So actually the price was $31,000, NOT 29,556 which was advertised. I brought this up and mentioned bait and switch, and jabba the hut sales manager shows the mice type at the very bottom of the internet page that states the policy. I walked at that point.

I went thru the Costco program recently and the dealer has to sell the car without that crap, if requested. Did get windows tinted by a shop elsewhere including the windshield— the windshield only for UV not dark at all. It’s sunny and hot here, around $500 and high grade ceramic. It was the highest end Accord, step down from my Mercedes but a good car. 

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IMHO never buy used from a dealer. Worked at a place where really clean used always needed a new speedometer, mileage set to whatever the manager said it was. I always bought new, around 180,000 did private sale and but new again.

The name eludes me, but these services that claim to show records on the vehicles tend to generalize. Bought a new Blazer once, had a bad turn signal bulb from the factory. Simple fix, but truck had "electrical problem" at 11 miles listed.

 

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21 hours ago, NPTim said:

I ****ing hate this. I hate the stealership numbers ****-**** ****ery! Why the **** can’t it be simple. Tell me the price out the door and I’ll decide if I want to pay it. No mandatory accessories. No creative math with the ****ing trade in.

I understand.  The last new vehicle I purchased was for my wife.  It was an end of the year model and even then haggling seemed foreign to them.  It was one my graduation presents when she got her Graduate Degree.  She said, she had always wanted a Honda Accord, after looking about a billion cars.  I said, "Decision made."  It is great for gas millage.  I don't like the give them a price, they go into a glass room, make you wait, after talking to no one, and making a counter offer.  I wonder if the dealership guy didn't realize we could see him meandering around?  On used vehicles my Tundra, haggling was easier.  They wanted to move it, I wanted to buy it.  I remember it well, it was right before the Shabbat, when they could show it, so I told him the time was ticking for business to be conducted.  So, they moved quickly on that one.

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Shop around, find out exactly what  you want and how you want it configured. Make an appointment with fleet sales. Request a bottom line price. It may take a week for them to find your vehicle and get it there. Hand them a cashiers check for that amount and drive away in your new vehicle. No slimy sales reps to worry about. It worked for me. 

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35 minutes ago, MikeG36 said:

Shop around, find out exactly what  you want and how you want it configured. Make an appointment with fleet sales. Request a bottom line price. It may take a week for them to find your vehicle and get it there. Hand them a cashiers check for that amount and drive away in your new vehicle. No slimy sales reps to worry about. It worked for me. 

So fleet sales, doesn’t that mean they sell to people/companies that buy 100-4000+ vehicles? I only want one.

all things being equal, I want the 2013 tundra platinum. Not from those *******, just in general.

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13 hours ago, crockett said:

I don't play by their rules and games anymore.

 

1.) Decide on the car / truck you want.

2.) Arrange cash or financing through your credit union, unless manufacturer offers lower or zero percent (only if you have a credit score of 740 plus, otherwise they will stuff you with a shitty loan and make provision on it).

3.) Search best deal nationwide on autotrader.com and cars. com (sort result list by price).

4.) Send 20+ emails directly to those dealers with the lowest pricing (email address to be found on their website, do not email them through autotrader.com or cars.com or you will be spammed with crap), ask directly for a cash OTD buyers order based on their online AD. Let them know that you are in the business (lie) to prevent them from playing stupid games and that you can be in and out within one hour.

5.) Some will still pull the stunt with incentives included in the AD that won't all apply. Ask for their invoice, and simultaneously ask them if they won't to get the car / truck off the lot and meet their planned contingent.

6.) Pick the best offer (factor in distance (time factor), one-way plane ticket, gas, hotel). Ask dealer if they will help with plane ticket, and then to pick you up at the airport.

 

I found my current truck 3 states up North in North Carolina. Got a bit over 30% off the sticker. Only 13 miles on it, no demo / dealer vehicle.

When I picked it up, I did the obligatory test ride around the block, looked at the production time stamp on the tires (1 year old), bitched about some vibration in the steering wheel and claimed that the tires must have flat spots from standing on the lot, and got another $1,000 off for new tires.

Back home I made a warranty claim with GoodYear, they replaced 2 tires and road-force balanced them all. Vibration is gone, didn't have to pay one dime.

I left at 6 AM, arrived at the dealer at 9 AM, was out at 11 AM (tire bitching took some time, needed to cook the sales mangers  a bit with "I came all the way out and now the truck has an issue, yada yada yada!), and drove back home in one shot. Was in my bed by midnight. Ticket and gas was about $500, only a tiny fraction of what I saved.

PS: Don't **** a ******. Live by it or you will be fucked over, especially at a car dealer.

 

 

I did the same thing on my last two motorcycles. with the exception of asking the dealer to help with the plane ticket. That thought just did not cross my mind.

Next time I will do that too.

Cars and trucks are another story. I have always bought them locally. I will go to a dealer and very clearly tell them what I want and what I am going to pay. Any backpedaling and I just leave. There are plenty of dealers around and they all need to sell cars more than I need to buy one.

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9 hours ago, NPTim said:

So fleet sales, doesn’t that mean they sell to people/companies that buy 100-4000+ vehicles? I only want one.

all things being equal, I want the 2013 tundra platinum. Not from those *******, just in general.

I bought one car. I heard about doing this on the radio and thought what the hell, I'll give that a try. It worked. I got exactly what I wanted and paid less than the showroom cost. No stupid "I gotta go run these numbers by my manager" bullshit. Just a nice clean deal. The way it should be. 

You can try the same thing with the regular sales rep. Go in and tell them what you want and what you want to spend. Tell them you don't want to waste their time if they can't help you. Also, go car shopping on the last day or two of the month. February is supposed to be the best month. They want to make those sales numbers and are more likely to give you what you want. 

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