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knife sharpeners


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for whatever reason i cant keep my knives sharp  ,  mostly knives on the farm , now that im retired i want to show attention to some of blades ive collected over the years.   i think i kept  bladeforum.com   in business.  ive sold about 80 of ones  that over time i just did nto care for later.  i kept the rare ones , gave some out to family .  

i can sharpen bush hog blades  to slice butter , but i cant a pocket knife go figures

whats a good sharpener that is pretty simple  and works ?

i bought spyderco sharp maker  and it  worked ok ,    someone told me to buy a Wicked edge unit .   but it looks involved  on youtube  , 

snd other said just get a diamond stone  .  what do yall use ?

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Work Sharp will get then razor sharp - but you can fark it up if you don't know what you're doing.  I have a knife now that I need to probably take down and re-do because I nicked the blade somehow.

It will shave hair but won't slice paper.  There appears to be a bad spot on the blade.

I won't use it on my really good stuff.

Video on the Work Sharp:

It's not the only game in town to be sure but it works.

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I learned long ago that the quickest way to ruin a knife is to had it and a wet stone to me.

I pay someone else to sharpen my blades. My every day carry is a Benchmade Boost and the store I bought it from offers free sharpening, so anytime I am in the area, I swing by and they take care of it for me.

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55 minutes ago, syntaxerrorsix said:

Yep, Worksharp.

 

I still sharpen all of my folders by hand but all of my fixed blade and kitchen knives get the belt with excellent results.

Do you use the guide?  I know some people freehand them.

I bought one of these last weekend as well - not this exact one but is similar:

LSLCSGM.jpg

 

Basically I have more knife sharpening **** than I know what to do with.  I've just accumulated it over the years. I wish I had my money back for most of it.  I'd keep the angle thing, the worksharp, a few stones, and two steels.

Maybe the small pull sharpener for if I am camping or something.  It's like this but smaller:

3_8408.jpg

 

Edited by SC Tiger
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I use a diamond impregnated steel on my EDC Pocketknives and Kitchen Knives; but when I have a fine custom blade that needs an edge, I let one of my friends do it with a ‘Wicked Edge System’ and the results are frighteningly sharp.....

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

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5 minutes ago, Hannie Caulder said:

?

I have a very nice set of Cutco kitchen knives.  The sharpener works great, they stay razor sharp.

My wife bought a nice set of Cutco knives. They are very nice knives and the local salesman will come out and sharpen them when needed.

Thats a good thing too because she would not want me doing it.

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yeah i got chinese knock offs to eff around with  i ordered some japanese   stones  to eff around with ,   i carry a sebbie daily  but im not practicing on it  lol .  my dad used to sharpen all my knives until he passed away  , the man could sharpen a knife  with a straw  , i never could for some reason .  

Edited by ASH
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8 hours ago, Hannie Caulder said:

?

I have a very nice set of Cutco kitchen knives.  The sharpener works great, they stay razor sharp.

Understood.  I am just not a fan of stamped 440A, and those "v" sharpeners take off more steel than necessary.

If you use one of those on, say, even a harder steel with a heel length bolster, you will soon find that the heel no longer contacts the cutting surface.

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9 hours ago, Al Czervik said:

Understood.  I am just not a fan of stamped 440A, and those "v" sharpeners take off more steel than necessary.

If you use one of those on, say, even a harder steel with a heel length bolster, you will soon find that the heel no longer contacts the cutting surface.

I have no idea what you just said but I believe you LOL.

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I used my Worksharp this weekend but tried it without the guard.  I think it may actually be better.  A normal outdoor knife is pretty close to straight-up-and-down on the belt anyway, though I suspect how much pressure you use (ie belt flex) plays a big part.

I think my next pocketknife will be a Spyderco in VG-10, or an Ontario in D-2.  I doubt either of those will see the worksharp much.

On 10/20/2018 at 7:18 AM, Hannie Caulder said:

I have no idea what you just said but I believe you LOL.

 

knife_parts.jpg

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Identify-the-Parts-of-Your-Knife-W64.aspx

I had no idea what the hell he was talking about either.  I knew what the bolster was.  I think what he's saying is that the blade will become thinner edge-to spine, than the bolster so the bolster will stick out.

Honestly if you don't abuse them, your kitchen knifes will only need this from time to time:

20160922-knife-steels-vicky-wasik-3.jpg

"Stamped 440A" is the blade material.  Some knife snobs (:599c64b322d5b_tongueout:) are hung up on materials like D2, VG-10, S30V, etc.  For a pro chef making sushi all day I would agree.  If you are only using them for 7-14 meals a week, there's no reason to get unreasonable.  Plus a kitchen knife isn't gonna be used on a lot of stuff that will really damage it (the occasional bone maybe).  440A is also apparently stain resistant and corrosion resistant.  Unless you like crunchy rusty particles in your food, this is a good thing!  

In fact outside of that the most damaging thing most chefs do to their knives intentionally is probably when they cut the damn top off the box with the ingredients in it!  At least on the cooking shows.

https://knifeup.com/how-good-is-44a-steel/

Also in my search for "knife heel" I found this - not really related but kinda interesting:

bf642412e2eb9f175b4059c3307dd8fb.jpg

Probably be hell on hardwood floors.

Edited by SC Tiger
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On 10/19/2018 at 11:14 AM, SC Tiger said:

Do you use the guide?  I know some people freehand them.

I bought one of these last weekend as well - not this exact one but is similar:

LSLCSGM.jpg

 

Basically I have more knife sharpening **** than I know what to do with.  I've just accumulated it over the years. I wish I had my money back for most of it.  I'd keep the angle thing, the worksharp, a few stones, and two steels.

Maybe the small pull sharpener for if I am camping or something.  It's like this but smaller:

3_8408.jpg

 

For hand sharpening I use Spyderco ceramic bench stones.

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I have course, medium and fine stones and a ceramic stick to sharpen with and a old heavy leather belt for stropping.

This works for me.

If you can not get a edge or it does not last long it sounds like you angle is off.

Also the knifes metal will affect sharpness and ability to hold a edge.

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