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So I found the truck I've been looking for.


astepup
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Since my dad passed away I've been driving his truck ('04 Silverado 1/2 ton 62K miles) and quickly decided I no longer need or want a car, except for the toys I already have. Giving my '11 Impala to my son so I figured I'll get another truck to replace it. Finally found "the one". '16 Silverado, 28K miles, gunmetal blue with gray cloth interior. Looked at it Sunday and it's as clean as can be. Already has a bedliner and tonneau cover. Even the frame is still the factory black. 

I'm going to the place either Wed or Thur for the obligatory test drive but I already have a feeling I'll be bringing it home, once a satisfactory price is set. Should that occur I'll post up some pics. With the miles I'll put on, both trucks should last me for years. The old DD Bonneville only has 195K on her so she'll serve as the work car until it blows up. 

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4 hours ago, astepup said:

Since my dad passed away I've been driving his truck ('04 Silverado 1/2 ton 62K miles) and quickly decided I no longer need or want a car, except for the toys I already have. Giving my '11 Impala to my son so I figured I'll get another truck to replace it. Finally found "the one". '16 Silverado, 28K miles, gunmetal blue with gray cloth interior. Looked at it Sunday and it's as clean as can be. Already has a bedliner and tonneau cover. Even the frame is still the factory black. 

I'm going to the place either Wed or Thur for the obligatory test drive but I already have a feeling I'll be bringing it home, once a satisfactory price is set. Should that occur I'll post up some pics. With the miles I'll put on, both trucks should last me for years. The old DD Bonneville only has 195K on her so she'll serve as the work car until it blows up. 

 

GM still puts that damn wax on the frame. That crap comes off with a pressure washer, and when it's warm in the summer, with a simple wipe of your finger. When it dries out after seveal years, it will flake off. If the truck is going to see any form of snow and salt, better touch that wax up once a year, right before winter, from day one. Once corrosion is established, your frame will decay underneath.

All other truck brands e-coat their frames which is much better these days. GM is still cutting corners on the corrosion prevention, and the wax peeling off is a huge problem, being discussed on all GM forums.

I had the wax fall off on a brand new 2017 Sierra Denali, because the frame wasn't prepped properly before the wax was applied. There are many people who had this problem. In some cases GM stripped the entire frame in order to redo the waxing. Those trucks have never been the same once the cab, box and drive train came off. In other instances the dealerships just removed and reapplied the wax as far as they could reach. In those cases the frame rusted everywhere in-between.

You can buy the OEM wax only directly at the manufacturer (Daubert Chemical). The exact product name is: NOX-RUST® X-121B

https://www.daubertchemical.com/products/corrosion-prevention/product/nox-rust-x-121b

One can is good for one season.

 

 

New truck, wax falling off:

 

3396078.jpg

 

 

This is a great truck channel. He shows the issues in a video from 2016:

 

 

 

Edited by crockett
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When my new vehicle undercoating was lacking, I used to drag out the spray gun and do the undersides completely with LPS3.  The volatile products evaporate after spraying, and it remains like Cosmoline on the surface.

I use this on a number of vehicles and never had problems with rust.  My claim to fame was doing a Pinto in LPS3, and the body was still solid and rust free after 10 years.  I would take out the taillight housing and spray the insides of the quarter panels all the way up to the door frames.  Just set the gun pattern for a stream to hit the door frame, and turn the pattern to wide fan.  The spray would come right back to the rear and hit top to bottom on the way.

I would pull any plastic/rubber plugs in the rocker panels and spray inside them also.  Wait overnight for the drips to stop, then put everything back and drive it.

Easy to apply and really long lasting.  One-half gallon would do a vehicle.

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1 hour ago, crockett said:

 

GM still puts that damn wax on the frame. That crap comes off with a pressure washer, and when it's warm in the summer, with a simple wipe of your finger. When it dries out after seveal years, it will flake off. If the truck is going to see any form of snow and salt, better touch that wax up once a year, right before winter, from day one. Once corrosion is established, your frame will decay underneath.

All other truck brands e-coat their frames which is much better these days. GM is still cutting corners on the corrosion prevention, and the wax peeling off is a huge problem, being discussed on all GM forums.

I had the wax fall off on a brand new 2017 Sierra Denali, because the frame wasn't prepped properly before the wax was applied. There are many people who had this problem. In some cases GM stripped the entire frame in order to redo the waxing. Those trucks have never been the same once the cab, box and drive train came off. In other instances the dealerships just removed and reapplied the way as far as they could reach. In those cases the frame rusted everywhere in-between.

You can buy the OEM wax only directly at the manufacturer (Daubert Chemical). The exact product name is: NOX-RUST® X-121B

https://www.daubertchemical.com/products/corrosion-prevention/product/nox-rust-x-121b

One can is good for one season.

 

 

New truck, wax falling off:

 

3396078.jpg

 

 

This is a great truck channel. He shows the issues in a video from 2016:

 

 

 

Being single for so many years I am familiar with wax off.

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2 hours ago, astepup said:

Since my dad passed away I've been driving his truck ('04 Silverado 1/2 ton 62K miles) and quickly decided I no longer need or want a car, except for the toys I already have. Giving my '11 Impala to my son so I figured I'll get another truck to replace it. Finally found "the one". '16 Silverado, 28K miles, gunmetal blue with gray cloth interior. Looked at it Sunday and it's as clean as can be. Already has a bedliner and tonneau cover. Even the frame is still the factory black. 

I'm going to the place either Wed or Thur for the obligatory test drive but I already have a feeling I'll be bringing it home, once a satisfactory price is set. Should that occur I'll post up some pics. With the miles I'll put on, both trucks should last me for years. The old DD Bonneville only has 195K on her so she'll serve as the work car until it blows up. 

Hope the truck deal works out for you.

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57 minutes ago, janice6 said:

When my new vehicle undercoating was lacking, I used to drag out the spray gun and do the undersides completely with LPS3.  The volatile products evaporate after spraying, and it remains like Cosmoline on the surface.

I use this on a number of vehicles and never had problems with rust.  My claim to fame was doing a Pinto in LPS3, and the body was still solid and rust free after 10 years.  I would take out the taillight housing and spray the insides of the quarter panels all the way up to the door frames.  Just set the gun pattern for a stream to hit the door frame, and turn the pattern to wide fan.  The spray would come right back to the rear and hit top to bottom on the way.

I would pull any plastic/rubber plugs in the rocker panels and spray inside them also.  Wait overnight for the drips to stop, then put everything back and drive it.

Easy to apply and really long lasting.  One-half gallon would do a vehicle.

 

Tried LPS 3 as well. The OEM wax is harder and stays on longer. It also adheres better to the existing wax.

 

 

Img-1303.jpg

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Just now, crockett said:

 

Tried LPS 3 as well. The OEM wax is harder and stays on longer. It also adheres better to the existing wax.

 

 

Img-1303.jpg

I never tried the aerosol.  I bought the liquid by the gallon.  I found that aerosols are so diluted to make them spray through the nozzle that they aren't good for much.

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16 minutes ago, janice6 said:

I never tried the aerosol.  I bought the liquid by the gallon.  I found that aerosols are so diluted to make them spray through the nozzle that they aren't good for much.

 

We used the liquid and aerosol version when protecting various parts on S-76 and Long Ranger helicopters which had been in year-round offshore deployment. It had to be removed and re-applied with every B checkup or it would deteriorate, exposing the metals.

By ISO standard it only protects for up to 2 years indoors, 9 months outdoors, and under saltwater spray even less.

 

https://www.lpslabs.com/site_files/tech_downloads/TDS_00316.pdf

Edited by crockett
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23 minutes ago, crockett said:

 

We used the liquid and aerosol version when protecting various parts on S-76 and Long Ranger helicopters which had been in year-round offshore deployment. It had to be removed and re-applied with every B checkup or it would deteriorate, exposing the metals.

By ISO standard it only protects for up to 2 years indoors, 9 months outdoors, and under saltwater spray even less.

 

https://www.lpslabs.com/site_files/tech_downloads/TDS_00316.pdf

That's interesting.  My son and I have had our cars protected for up to 10 years.  For the 10 years we used a second application.  I found it far better than the dealers material.  My applications were for Minnesota.  I haven't had my vehicles in any milder climates.

Now, I haven't used it for a while, since I found the new materials used by Nissan to approximate Cosmoline, and re-treatment isn't necessary.

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