Do we have any welders on the forum?

[Silentpoet]

9 hours ago, crockett said:

Top left weld is my 4th attempt. Lowered gas flow from 25 to 18 and moved the tungsten further into the cup. Too many turbulences at 25 and cup too far away from the material IMO. I only removed the torch to fast so the end got contaminated.

 

 

 

 

AL doesn't need as much argon as stainless.  The stickout should be roughly the same as the diameter of the cup opening.  Though with gas lenses you can stick out a bit more. I have a Furick FUPA 12 that I use alot for stainless, not as much use for aluminum though. Leave the torch over the weld until the post flow is done.  If the tungsten turns black your post flow isn't long enough and then your next weld will be contaminated. I have done much worse than that above on aluminum.  To avoid the crater at the end, ease off on the pedal and add another dab of filler.

Aluminum is a bitch because the oxide layer on the outside has a substantially higher melting point than the base metal.  I'd much rather deal with stainless steel.  I understand it better and can weld it better.  I can tack weld soda cans, but I can run beads on razor blades.  I may play with cans later this week.

 

as far as buying metal, https://weldmetalsonline.com  is where I buy coupons for thin stuff that the school doesn't supply.  If you can find a local metal supply that might be cheaper. But these guys are as cheap as anything on amazon. 

[crockett]

3 minutes ago, Silentpoet said:

AL doesn't need as much argon as stainless.  The stickout should be roughly the same as the diameter of the cup opening.  Though with gas lenses you can stick out a bit more. I have a Furick FUPA 12 that I use alot for stainless, not as much use for aluminum though. Leave the torch over the weld until the post flow is done.  If the tungsten turns black your post flow isn't long enough and then your next weld will be contaminated. I have done much worse than that above on aluminum.  To avoid the crater at the end, ease off on the pedal and add another dab of filler.

Aluminum is a bitch because the oxide layer on the outside has a substantially higher melting point than the base metal.  I'd much rather deal with stainless steel.  I understand it better and can weld it better.  I can tack weld soda cans, but I can run beads on razor blades.  I may play with cans later this week.

 

as far as buying metal, https://weldmetalsonline.com  is where I buy coupons for thin stuff that the school doesn't supply.  If you can find a local metal supply that might be cheaper. But these guys are as cheap as anything on amazon. 

 

That's some awesome feedback right there and goes together exactly with info I found online. Not counting one suggestion: I found a couple youtube video where the guy suggested that the tungsten should stick out no more than 1/4", less if possible.

I'll have to try it tomorrow.

Awesome website! I just bought some more alu from home depot but they are expensive and don't have a lot of variety.

[Silentpoet]

10 minutes ago, crockett said:

 

That's some awesome feedback right there and goes together exactly with info I found online. Not counting one suggestion: I found a couple youtube video where the guy suggested that the tungsten should stick out no more than 1/4", less if possible.

I'll have to try it tomorrow.

Awesome website! I just bought some more alu from home depot but they are expensive and don't have a lot of variety.

Watch Jody, welding tips and tricks, pacific arc tig welding, and The fabrication series.  Those are about the best 3 channels for tig welding.  Weld dot com the youtube channel has some good older videos.  The new stuff is a bit lower quality.  Weldtube has some tig stuff on their youtube channel, but you have to search through the other types of welding.  I do like how they break down some weld techniques though.

You can vary the stickout depending on the application.  With the fupa 12 cup I can stick out about as far as I need.  As little stickout as you can get by with is helpful, but often you need a bit more stickout to see the arc and puddle unless you are running a pyrex/glass cup.  You don't want to much angle and sometimes the short stickout will force you to angle the torch too much. Torch shouldn't be laying down too much in general.  The arc should more or less be pointed straight down(or straight into the joint), ideally.  But you will have some angle.  And it some applications more angle. like on fillet welds. There comes a certain point where you will not be focusing the heat from the arc into the weld and instead more into the direction of travel, that is what you are trying to avoid.

But those welds look really promising.

[crockett]

5 minutes ago, Silentpoet said:

Watch Jody, welding tips and tricks, pacific arc tig welding, and The fabrication series.  Those are about the best 3 channels for tig welding.  Weld dot com the youtube channel has some good older videos.  The new stuff is a bit lower quality.  Weldtube has some tig stuff on their youtube channel, but you have to search through the other types of welding.  I do like how they break down some weld techniques though.

You can vary the stickout depending on the application.  With the fupa 12 cup I can stick out about as far as I need.  As little stickout as you can get by with is helpful, but often you need a bit more stickout to see the arc and puddle unless you are running a pyrex/glass cup.  You don't want to much angle and sometimes the short stickout will force you to angle the torch too much. Torch shouldn't be laying down too much in general.  The arc should more or less be pointed straight down(or straight into the joint), ideally.  But you will have some angle.  And it some applications more angle. like on fillet welds. There comes a certain point where you will not be focusing the heat from the arc into the weld and instead more into the direction of travel, that is what you are trying to avoid.

But those welds look really promising.

 

Do you use pyrex / glass cups at all? What's the point besides better view? Are the cup sizes a standard and fit all brands?

[Silentpoet]

11 minutes ago, crockett said:

 

Do you use pyrex / glass cups at all? What's the point besides better view? Are the cup sizes a standard and fit all brands?

There are different size torches. But within that they are pretty universal. Some are water cooled and some are air cooled, but basically they are the same. Some are more compact, which can help in tight spaces. The attached picture is from weldmonger, which is Jody's store. 

Gas lenses are a bit different on the outer end, but they should screw into the torch the same.  They would use a different style cup.

 

The better view can be very important.  They also increase the light a bit overall.  Sometimes you see through them, sometimes they just increase the ambient light.  I use them some.  They aren't essential, but can be helpful.  The only thing is they can be a bit fragile at times. Some of the nicer ones have some metal in the cup to protect them.  Not really used that style.

[crockett]

10 minutes ago, Silentpoet said:

There are different size torches. But within that they are pretty universal. Some are water cooled and some are air cooled, but basically they are the same. Some are more compact, which can help in tight spaces. The attached picture is from weldmonger, which is Jody's store. 

 

The better view can be very important.  They also increase the light a bit overall.  Sometimes you see through them, sometimes they just increase the ambient light.  I use them some.  They aren't essential, but can be helpful.  The only thing is they can be a bit fragile at times. Some of the nicer ones have some metal in the cup to protect them.  Not really used that style.

 

Thank you so much, that explains a lot! The torch that came with my Fronius welder didn't have any model no on it, but the collet is the same as in the top left corner. That will help me to order more, matching cups.

[crockett]

Got my welder with a nice discount, because it was sold as a demo unit. Demo unit usually means that the product was on display or shown at trade show a couple times. Today I checked the calibration certificate and realized that its over 3 years old and must have been sent around countless times, and the cert ran out over a year ago. Send them an email, that's when I found out that it also only comes with 6 months of warranty instead of the usual 3 years, and told them to pick the welder up for a full refund. That's not a demo unit, that's a used product, period.

Going to buy a 100% new one from one of their dealers instead. They offer only a 200 buck discount, but I save on free shipping and no sales tax, so its still 1 grand below retail price.

Should have listened to my intuition. I usually never buy demo products, let alone used stuff. Won't make that mistake ever again.

Thinking about upgrading to the water cooled version as well.

 

 

[Silentpoet]

1 hour ago, crockett said:

Got my welder with a nice discount, because it was sold as a demo unit. Demo unit usually means that the product was on display or shown at trade show a couple times. Today I checked the calibration certificate and realized that its over 3 years old and must have been sent around countless times, and the cert ran out over a year ago. Send them an email, that's when I found out that it also only comes with 6 months of warranty instead of the usual 3 years, and told them to pick the welder up for a full refund. That's not a demo unit, that's a used product, period.

Going to buy a 100% new one from one of their dealers instead. They offer only a 200 buck discount, but I save on free shipping and no sales tax, so its still 1 grand below retail price.

Should have listened to my intuition. I usually never buy demo products, let alone used stuff. Won't make that mistake ever again.

Thinking about upgrading to the water cooled version as well.

 

 

My mig welder is a mig max215  from harbor freight.  Normally 879 dollars.  I got it for 540 because it was a return.  No part appeared to be used near as I could see.  Because of the return status I had 5 days to return it if it was bad. However I was aware of this and accepted the risk.

I brought it to school and for the first hour or so I was thinking I was going to have to return it.  But once I finally got it running it is a solid machine. I just padded beads on it trying to make it hit duty cycle and I could not. I ran the entire spool of cheapo mig wire that came with it, I guess 1-2 pounds. I had to back off because the plate I was putting the beads on was getting hot and cooking my hand. 

[janice6]

23 minutes ago, Silentpoet said:

My mig welder is a mig max215  from harbor freight.  Normally 879 dollars.  I got it for 540 because it was a return.  No part appeared to be used near as I could see.  Because of the return status I had 5 days to return it if it was bad. However I was aware of this and accepted the risk.

I brought it to school and for the first hour or so I was thinking I was going to have to return it.  But once I finally got it running it is a solid machine. I just padded beads on it trying to make it hit duty cycle and I could not. I ran the entire spool of cheapo mig wire that came with it, I guess 1-2 pounds. I had to back off because the plate I was putting the beads on was getting hot and cooking my hand. 

I had some 1/8" and thicker to weld with my MIG (An old Century 225 AMP) and I wanted a smooth weld with good penetration so I set the current at Max and ran 0.017 wire at almost the max speed.

Then I welded slowly and the result was absolutely beautiful.  I think it came under a different mode than normal MIG welding because the penetration was complete and the bead was absolutely smooth with little discoloration.

Using the above method I didn't have to change settings for 1/8" and thicker, just adjust my weld bead speed.

My Tig and MIG are old school with little adjustment other than the normal Miller Synchrowave 180. The MIG has a pulse mode but not electronic just relay duty cycle.  It does allow nice outside beads on tubing.

I made a lot of decorative fencing with 2x2 steel tubing and an insert in the middle of 1/2"x 1 and 1/2 " rectangular tubing having diamond screen insert in the center.

My son has the top of the line new welders and plasma cutters so I'm pretty humble compared to that.

Just a tip:  I cut a 40 foot steel tube into two lengths to carry home, then welded it back to original length for an antenna mount/tower. 

I clamped right angle steel in three spots lengthwise open angle against the pipe with hose clamps to hold the two long pieces truly straight and align the pipe  after welding.  Worked beautifully.

 

[janice6]

37 minutes ago, Silentpoet said:

My mig welder is a mig max215  from harbor freight.  Normally 879 dollars.  I got it for 540 because it was a return.  No part appeared to be used near as I could see.  Because of the return status I had 5 days to return it if it was bad. However I was aware of this and accepted the risk.

I brought it to school and for the first hour or so I was thinking I was going to have to return it.  But once I finally got it running it is a solid machine. I just padded beads on it trying to make it hit duty cycle and I could not. I ran the entire spool of cheapo mig wire that came with it, I guess 1-2 pounds. I had to back off because the plate I was putting the beads on was getting hot and cooking my hand. 

Look up "TIG Finger" on the net.  It works beautifully to keep you from burning your fingers on the "off hand" while TIG'ing.

[crockett]

First butt join weld. Looks a bit crusty, not sure why. 1/8th and all.

 

[crockett]

Brand spanking new welder incoming...

 

[crockett]

Current state of progress.

No more craters, pretty shiny, good penetration, needs more consistency.

 

[Fog]

Maybe it's just the photos, but it doesn't look like you are cleaning your aluminum before welding?

[crockett]

3 hours ago, Fog said:

Maybe it's just the photos, but it doesn't look like you are cleaning your aluminum before welding?

Its the photos. I use a brand spanking new stainless steel brush and acetone on every piece, but only where the weld will be, so not the entire surface.

[crockett]

Amazon is retarded. It suggests a protection insurance plan for electrodes lol

I think I'll do it. And when those 10 electrodes are burned off, I'll file a claim for new ones and call it a result of lightning and power surge. What's not to like?

 

[Fog]

4 hours ago, crockett said:

Amazon is retarded. It suggests a protection insurance plan for electrodes lol

I think I'll do it. And when those 10 electrodes are burned off, I'll file a claim for new ones and call it a result of lightning and power surge. What's not to like?

 

Do it!

You can't buy that kind of entertainment for that cheap.

I got a gift card one time, went to local sporting goods store and spent it. 

I noticed on the receipt that it said the balance on the card was for the original amount of the card. So, next time I shopped there I used it again. Same thing, said original amount remained. 

Walked over to the customer service counter and explained, gal ran the card and said the balance was for the original amount. I showed her both receipts, she tried to tell me it was a different card, then said it was just charging it to the credit card that purchased the gift card.

Quick check with my FIL proved that his credit card was not being charged any extra. 

I spent the gift card again. This time I told the manager. He said spend it till it changes and he'll let corporate know about the issue.

They fixed it before I got to spend it a forth time.

[Silentpoet]

7 hours ago, crockett said:

Amazon is retarded. It suggests a protection insurance plan for electrodes lol

I think I'll do it. And when those 10 electrodes are burned off, I'll file a claim for new ones and call it a result of lightning and power surge. What's not to like?

 

It gets even better, it will suggest those same plans for SMAW, stick welding electrodes too.

 

[Silentpoet]

On 11/4/2021 at 5:35 PM, Fog said:

Maybe it's just the photos, but it doesn't look like you are cleaning your aluminum before welding?

I think he has the AC balance a bit off.  Needs a bit more cleaning action.  Should have a small area around the bead, like a HAZ, heat affected zone, on stainless. At this late hour I think it is negative, but I am tired.

[crockett]

20 hours ago, Silentpoet said:

I think he has the AC balance a bit off.  Needs a bit more cleaning action.  Should have a small area around the bead, like a HAZ, heat affected zone, on stainless. At this late hour I think it is negative, but I am tired.

Its at 31%.

I was able to get it fixed. Needed more amps and smashing the paddle to get of the line fast. Before I put too much heat into the material due to low amps, and that caused the impurity over time.

[crockett]

Installed an LED light and table clamps arrived.

 

[crockett]

Made some good progress today. These 2 steps helped me most:

1.) Higher max amp, slamming the paddle at first, AND learning to properly use the pedal. Listening to the arc helps me to hear the right amount of amps going in, somehow it works better than trying to see how the puddle looks like. I may also need new glasses. Worked on 1/4" alu today with 225 amps and 240 Hz. The puddle shows quickly and I can move along with probably only 140 amps while keeping the arc very short.

2.) I changed the frequency from 60 (was default) to 240 Hz.

First time I was able to produce 1/4" beads instead of those half inch wide monsters.

[crockett]

Holly hell, YesWelder just started a sale with 20% off, on all welders AND free shipping, only 430 bucks! Best deal I have seen. They get good reviews. Something like this from Miller or Fronius will cost you 3 grand plus.

https://yeswelder.com/collections/best-sellers

Just put one in the cart and go to checkout.

 

4 in 1: Gas MIG / Gasless MIG / Lift TIG / Stick

 

 

 

[crockett]

Never mind regarding YesWelder, they seem to be lacking according to folks on a welding forum.

Looks like I won't be able to save money on my MIG setup.

Was looking at a Miller Millermatic 211, but just found out that its not made in the USA anymore.

Looks like I'll get another Fronius machine, a TransSteel 2200. My wallet hates me lately.

 

[DWARREN123]

Buy once, cry once. Good equipment costs money but pays for itself.