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Everything posted by Nestor

  1. About 40 F and light rain. First time this year. Overcast. I do enjoy the sound of the drops on the windows...
  2. Nice trigger. Less recoil than Mosin Nagant. I may start bidding on the old, Redfield receiver sight for this rifle.
  3. Wife runs the rifle for the first time at 25 meters.
  4. Rock Island 22 TCM 1911. Full size 1911 in 9mm. 22 Magnum 3-4" barrel revolver. Ruger SR9, but it has a bit more recoil than 1911 in the same caliber.
  5. About 12 coats of the pure tung oil, finished with the wax. No varnish. One old screw gave up during the re-assembly process and forced me to be creative. Modern screw with the leather washer worked just fine, but I may order a replacement eventually. Awaiting the headspace gauges and as soon as I'll be able to verify it's safe to fire, this old girl may start rocking again. Thanks for your time Guys. Range report will follow.
  6. I used to have the Russian one. I'm finding the spike bayonet less obstructive while handling the rifle as it disappears into the stock in contrary to the blade one that sticks out.
  7. Built by the Chinese when the 1st Cavalry Division fought in La Drang. Luckily to the good guys it was never used against them. Instead it was exported to the USA in the early 90's and from there to Canada. Never left the safe since then. Still in the same cardboard box with the Styrofoam insert and all the accessories. Cleaning kit in the butt stock. Standard SKS rifle, unfortunately the magazine was pinned down to 5 rounds capacity in accordance with the local law. Otherwise nice find. Cleaning ahead. I may just wipe off the lacquer and finish the stock with the tung oil to bring the natural beauty of the wood. Always loved these communist machines. As opposed to the communism itself. Some pictures are with the flashlight, so the color of the wood may be slightly different between the different photos. It's however light, golden with the red tint.
  8. All the small parts are back where they belong. It was a bit tricky to re-install the sear spring and rear sight as there was a LOT of spring pressure involved. Nonetheless it's all done now. Rust was removed and all the metal parts were oiled and greased preventing any rust issues in the future. I didn't refinish anything and was happy to leave the wear marks exposed. It doesn't bother me at all - it's all history after all. Evidence of the war fought. I may opt for the full refinish with the next rifle which is going to be a de-sported example. Still need to order the bolt tool and wood will require couple more weeks to be ready, but it's getting closer to the end. So many markings...
  9. There is no market for the small, work truck any longer. Most truck owners will never use their vehicles for work and those who will, need much larger ones. Dead end.
  10. Maybe I indeed used the wrong description of the process in place by saying that I would like to clean it up and restore the rifle to the old glory. Sorry if it came through like that. While the worn out look may lack in the esthetics department it doesn't affect the function and I simply thought that the nice paint would look weird along the old looking wood. Perhaps a single coat of the low gloss engine enamel over the areas where the steel is exposed and then some gently sanding would be better? I'm not sure. I'm going to look again at the receiver soon and decide the best course of action. Thanks Guys!
  11. While I totally understand (and crave) the idea of full restoration, I'm just cleaning up this rifle. To restore it, I would need to find a proper wood with Ishapore screw in mint/brand new condition. In fact I would opt for the professional re-finisher instead of using the spray-on paint in such case. Yes, with the rust some of the flaking paint is gone, exposing the bare steel, but at the same time it shows the before FTR look (I'm assuming) of the rifle. I don't mind it really. I left all the scratches and scars both on the wood and metal intact. My intention was just to clean up the rust, dirt and Cosmoline off. My only real concern at this point is to preserve the "battle worn" look while keeping the rust and mold away. For this reason I've treated the stock with the anti-mold solution and used silicone grease on the small metal parts.
  12. Cosmoline was removed both from the receiver and barrel. Mineral spirits bath followed by the light oil spray (WD40) followed by another mineral spirits bath and finished with the boiling water treatment. In the end it's nice to see the Cosmoline gone. As you can see the receiver was a bit rusty. No wonder - it was made 90 years ago. Rust removal bath took care of that and now it's soaking in the rust inhibitor oil. All the small parts that were cleaned received the silicone grease film. However those that will be exposed to the heat will only be oiled. More to come later. After the boiling water dried. 90 minutes later after the rust removal bath.
  13. That sounds like a normal weather forecast for this place, but on a more serious note I like to seal the grain with ultra thin layers (to the point where you can barely notice that the wood was just oiled) rather than 3-4 thicker ones. I may also follow up on the advice regarding the silicone grease. Last time I was on the range we got hit with the heavy rain followed by the hail. Summers are nice here though
  14. I developed a slightly different technique in fact. I'm staining the wood first, but I'm also adding the stain to the tung oil, mixing it up with a bit of odorless mineral spirits. Now while applying the oil, I'm doing it while sanding with the very fine sandpaper (like 1000). This way the oil turns muddy and fills the grain quicker and also it looks better as the stain got pushed into the grain. I would let it dry for about 30 minutes and gently wipe off the excess and then let it dry for 3-5 days. I'm usually going for 8-9 coats, but the last one or two may have some poly added for additional protection against the elements (usually matte poly). I would top that with wax in the end.
  15. Nestor

    Old Pictures

    Troops of the Polish Armoured Division, showing utter exhaustion after 4 days of constant fighting during the Battle of the Falaise Pocket against five Panzer (four of them SS) divisions, August 21st 1944. 466 Poles lost their life and 975 were seriously wounded during the battle, but they manage to eliminate 1500 elite German soldiers in this epic struggle.
  16. I'll try my best Sir! (spoiler alert - just two coats and still curing)...I'm actually using two different color mixes here (on different wood)....hoping that in the end, they will come up pretty similar.
  17. Nestor

    Old Pictures

    Wow! I'm speechless.
  18. Light surface rust on the small parts as You can see. Short, rust removal bath and a lot of oil will take care of that. I've brushed all the small screws and parts and you can see how much crap was caked there. That's just from the one, small screw. Cosmoline is still leaking from the rear sight assembly despite an ongoing treatment (that part is visible in the upper, right corner of the first picture). I'm not sure how much of this stuff sits still inside. I'm not taking the elevation slide apart. Just too small of a part, so it will sit and soak for a while instead. It's however a small piece of art. Whole rear sight really is. Old World craftsmanship at its best. Receiver is taking a mineral spirit bath during the day and WD40 treatment in the night. Probably for 2-3 days, just to make sure that all the Cosmoline is gone. Boiling water treatment will follow (along with the barrel), just to not take any chances. Wood is looking....well, not bad, but there were only two coats of the pure tung oil applied over the last week (first diluted 50/50 with the mineral spirits). I know that the Brits never used the tung oil. I just like it better than the BLO, because it's drying slower, penetrating the wood better while providing marginally better protection. I'm not going to show you any pictures...yet. I'll be back in a week or so, with some updates. Thanks for your time!
  19. Excellent feedback Guys. Much appreciated. Thanks!
  20. I may need to order that bolt take down tool from Brownells or buy something similar. After inspecting the wood I've came across the expected dilemma. Areas around the receiver ring (where the butt stock and forend are attached) were soaked in Cosmoline. I was hoping (despite the layer on the outside) that this, nasty staff didn't sink in, but that wasn't the case. It's somehow essential for the Lee Enfield to have these areas in good shape as the wood works the hardest there. Process of removing the Cosmoline from wood isn't exactly quick nor difficult, but in the works much of the finish was gone, so I had to stripped all of it. It's going to be difficult to re-create that burnt red tint on the dark background, but I'll try. In the meantime small cracks were glued and the glue reinforced some small areas that were compromised by time. Largest one was running on the inside of the rear handguard and it was even visible from outside. I've only did one, small repair on the butt stock as the small part of the wood that was initially touching the butt plate was gone. Otherwise, after removing the Cosmoline and drying the wood, it was ready to be refinished within 48 hours. I've also touched up the bedding areas with the anti-mold solution as there was some strange discoloration present in two or three spots. I left all the markings and scars intact. Challenge with refinishing is strictly related to different shades of wood (as you can see on the pictures) and that dark red tint of the old rifles. Challenge accepted!
  21. I can tell you that Cosmoline can get hard as a rock. I was able to make the safety move just with WD40 and some patience. Same with the magazine cut off. Both parts were taken apart and dropped into the jar full of mineral spirits. I'm going to let these sit there for day or two. Every small space inside the receiver is full of Cosmoline. Now, nothing helped with the rear sight assembly. After removing it from the barrel I dropped the assembly into the mineral spirits. I sprayed this thing with WD40. Nothing. It wouldn't even move a millimeter. The spring wouldn't depress at all. Whatever was inside was just hard as rock. As the last resort (of sort) I grabbed $9 hair dryer from Walmart and started applying the heat. It got damn hot pretty quickly...so hot in fact that I had a hard time holding it with the bare fingers. Good thing is that some dark goo started leaking from inside of the assembly and finally it moved. Jeeezz...so far the most difficult part of the process. I removed as much of the grease and dirt from inside as I could and that thing joined other, small parts in the mineral spirits bath. I'll leave it there for a while. Receiver will require quite a lot of attention. Need to find a way to submerge it somehow in the mineral spirits as well. I'll tell you about the wood next time. Thanks for your time Guys!
  22. Looks good to my eye. Now it's time to use a clear rust paint to preserve the patina (three light coats) final effect
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