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It’s the same case of primers I have been using for the last several batches I have worked up. I usually crank out about 400 rounds at a time. The primers looked like they got a solid smack, it wasn’t an obvious light strike. I will have to carefully inspect and measure my next batch when I seat the primers, but I have never precisely measured seating depth. Just visually inspect and feel the primer after seating before tossing it in the box. The revolvers are model 10’s. The hammer speed and spring strength seems normal. The strain screw is screwed in all the way and snug, and the firing pins seems are in good shape. I normally tap & rack or pull the trigger again immediately after a malfunction without stopping to inspect the problem so as to build good muscle memory for malfunction clearance, but next time I will carefully inspect each failure to fire and document it so I can get a better idea of what I’m dealing with. I buy CCI primers because that’s what available locally without paying shipping costs. Only one local shop carries any reloading supplies these days, and their selection continues to dwindle. The shop owner claims it’s not profitable anymore. I am willing to order a bulk order of another primers if it will prevent future issues. I’m down to about 300 CCI primers, and will have to purchase more soon anyway. What would you recommend?

This weekend shooting two different revolvers I had multiple misfires with both guns. Most fired on the second strike, a few took a third strike. My load is 4.0 grains of Win231, CCI primers, and a 158g Hornaday LSWC. Its no tack driver load in any one revolver, but it shoots acceptably in all of mine with minimal recoil, and best of all it’s a very economical load. Especially considering I get all my brass free. My question is what could I have done to cause these light primer strikes? Is there anything I could be doing to cause them? And what can I do to prevent issues in the future. I’m getting low on ammo and am about to crank out another big batch of ammo.

I rode in the cab with my dad on a passenger run this weekend. His retirement job is engineering an afternoon run for a local railroad museum. This was a diesel, but I reallly want to accompany him on a steam run someday. Not many guys still know how to run those old steam locomotives.

but he won’t be..........

I like Dwight as well. Very unique voice and style. I miss country music. It’s a shame what happened to it.

Welcome to my world. I live in a football town and it’s like that 8 Saturday’s a year here in the fall. I loathe football as a result. Sunday morning the streets are covered in vomit and litter, and the air reeks of piss and barf.

Thanks. I’ve always appreciated revolvers, and have carried a J frame as a backup and off-duty carry gun for about fifteen years, but recently I have been drawn to the model 10. It’s not random, as I have been collecting vintage police gear and researching vintage uniforms and gear, with interest primarily in the late fifties to mid sixties. The standard profile model 10 is the quintessential cop gun of that era IMO. After quite a bit of research I have determined that police administrative polices got a lot of cops killed, and started the belief that revolvers were outdated prematurely. Resistenace to retention holsters and insistence that officers not use speedloaders or carry magnum ammo left a lot of officers outgunned. LRN ammo and dump pouches were used long after speed loaders and better ammo became available. All in the name of ‘perception’. The model 66 is the only magnum I own. It’s checks the box of having a magnum if I ever feel the need for some oomph. The rest are all model 10 variants in .38, except for the little airweight.

Nothing. I gave up on her carrying something a long time ago. She just won’t do it. She is familiar enough with guns to handle them safely, and she has the code to the minivault in the bedroom in case she ever needs access to my handgun.

Any opinions on these three? I am wanting a heavy hard cast solid in .38spl that will be safe in all my revolvers whether they are chambered for .357mag or .38spl but still have some ass behind it. I want it to make 1000fps in my snubby and close to 1200 in my 4” guns. This would be for a woods load for hunting season. I do reload, but I have limited experience in working up loads. I load standard pressure 148g HBWC and 158g LSWC loads that are loaded for accuracy and soft shooting, not power. If anyone has a good load they have proved over a chrono I am open to suggestions on that as well, but I am thinking I just want to buy a box and shoot a few to familiarize myself with them and keep two speedloaders loaded up with them. I shouldn’t need more than that for a long time.

Heard a big crash last week that got my heart rate going full speed. I was still dressed from the day so I had my airweight revolver on me. I cleared the house to my minivault on the nightstand which got me access to my P220 equipped with a WML and a spare magazine. Cleared the rest of the house and discovered the source of the noise. Turned out to be the shower curtain rod falling and it knocked the mirror off the wall on its way down. Felt stupid afterwards. I have a boy in the house these days, so no unsecured weapons are left out. I used to like having a Mossberg loaded with #4 buck propped up beside the bed.

I got the cylinder disassembled and discovered quite a bit of corrosion in the internals. I got it cleaned up and left a nice coating of ballistol on everything inside. It spins freely now and the cylinder opens and closes like new. The extractor star fit nice and flush and the ejector rod moves freely also. Good as new. I did blemish the ejector rod trying to get it off. I’ve never had one stuck that tight. A touch of cold blue concealed the damage pretty nicely. You’d never notice it if you didn’t know where to look.

I got to shoot both of them this morning. I fired several hundred rounds of 158g LSWC. The little 2” model 10 takes utmost effort to shoot well compared to my 3 and 4 inch revolvers. It will be a good little carry gun, but it didn’t impress me from the 15 yard line. Being a full size frame I expected it to shoot equally as well as the other guns, and it shot more like a J frame than I expected. I had the cylinder bind after about 150 rounds in the 2” gun. Had major buildup under the extractor star. Not sure why as the 4” gun was fired equally as much with virtually no visible buildup. And both guns were spotless clean to begin with. I wonder if it’s gas blowback? Are there known gas seal problems with a 10-7? I know it’s been redesigned several times. The 4” pencil barrel model 10 was the real star of the day. It was an absolute dream to shoot. Perfect balance and very good accuracy. The full length ejector and the thin front sight blade were a big plus. I had some light primer strikes with both guns. I was shooting my own reloads so I’m not very concerned, but I do need to try some factory ammo and carry ammo to ensure all is well before carrying them. I also shot 5 125g magnums out of a friend’s 2” model 640. Bad idea. That was absolutely punishing. But surprisingly I rang steel on all five shots. I’d still carry it with +P’s personally. When my holster arrives I fully intend to carry the snubby this winter. It will be a fun gun to carry OWB with a split six speedloader pouch under a windbreaker.

I’m no photographer, but I really wanted to take a family portrait. Here are my revolvers from top to bottom: 4” model 66-1 4” model 10 3” model 64-5 2” model 10-7 442 jframe

Just realized this gun is a four screw model. Which, unless I’m wrong, would in fact confirm that it’s a 1961. Right? To be a model 10 no dash but also a four screw 1961 would have to be it. Because after that it would be a three screw model 10, and prior to that it would have been a pre-model 10. any ideas if that is accurate. I’m doing a little research now. Doesn’t really matter, I’m just curious now.

I did not expect to win this one when I threw a last minute bid on a GB auction. She arrived today and I have to say I am very pleased. She is 90% IMO with only the most minor blemishes from handling or storage, and practically no sign of actual use. Hardly even a turn ring around the cylinder She is a 1961 (unconfirmed) Model 10 no dash(that is confirmed). I am going to have to cool my jets for a while and won’t be making any purchases for a while. I can’t wait to shoot both of these K frames this weekend. The 2” will be carried when my holster comes in.